On May 2 we added a feline to our two-dog, two-human household. We’d long considered it, and my work puts many great cats in my path every day. When I met Tat, I was convinced it was time and only had to convince my husband and the dogs that he should become part of our family.

Tat had become a favorite among some of the staff here at the Richmond SPCA. When he first arrived, he let everyone know that being caged in a room with other cats simply did not work for him. This got him a place in an office, where he closely supervised the work of our Spay/Neuter Helpline.

My description of what I was looking for in a cat was, “a grouchy Tom cat who will stand up to my dogs.” Tat fit that description, but his cat-itude would have gotten him labeled a “bad” cat by some. It just goes to show that there really aren’t good or bad feline-alities – each one can be loveable to someone.

Next week: adjusting to his new home.

Today’s blog was written by Tabitha Hanes, community relations manager at the Richmond SPCA.

Let’s face it, litter box maintenance entails some yucky tasks: scooping the waste, emptying the litter, cleaning the box, cleaning the scattered litter outside the box, and re-filling the box from a 40-lb. container of dusty litter.  What we wouldn’t do to take all that away.  If only the litter box could clean and empty itself.  Well, litter custodians, your dream has come true.  There is now a product on the market that professes just those abilities.  The self-flushing, self-cleaning, never needs re-filling litter box. 

It’s important to keep a few things in mind while considering this option— the most important issue being your cat’s comfort.  Remember, if your cat is not comfortable with the litter situation, he won’t be able to tell you, he’ll simply find somewhere “more comfortable” to relieve himself.  Resolving that problem is a very unpleasant task.

Multi-cat households. Even though this box allows for frequent use, there’s no substitute for multiple boxes in a multi-cat household.  If the box is in use, when your other cat needs it, you will want to have a second box immediately available. 

The noise factor. You absolutely do not want a cat in or heading to the litter box when it starts the scooping/cleaning/drying sequence.  We recommend setting the auto-clean option to manual so your cat does not experience a surprise cleaning. 

Size. Make sure the box is a suitable size for your cat(s).  These boxes don’t come in a variety of sizes.  Compare the size of the self-cleaning box to the size of your current box.  A box too much smaller may cramp your kitty’s style. 

Advanced technology is great.  I remember when “clumping” litter was a new item.  Make sure this advanced technology suits both you and your cat before committing.  Take advantage of the 90-day money-back guarantee if you need.

Today’s blog author is Marie Tripton. Marie is the senior behavior/training specialist at the Richmond SPCA. Call the Behavior Helpline at (804) 643-SPCA.

As a mom I am always amazed at what my children pick up on even when I was unaware that they had been paying any attention at all.  This past weekend we were out to eat and a young man came into the restaurant with a red, number 7, Michael Vick jersey on.  My son actually noticed it before I did and asked my husband why anyone would want to still wear one.  Even before either of us could say anything his sister asked, “Yeah mom, since he went to jail isn’t it illegal?” I said that even though he was in jail everyone has the right to say or wear what they want, despite the horrible things he was convicted of doing.  Then her brother said, “Well, I think the dogs should get the last say in the whole thing.”

I just have to wonder if my children grasp the concept of what had happened that simply. What about the children of the parents who thought what Vick and company did was okay and still let their children don a Vick jersey?  Who are their role models for a change in attitude and behavior?  We can never become complacent enough to think that that the battle is over as long as one animal is suffering because of someone’s inhumanity.  But I have to believe that the fight is won with our next generation grasping that every life really is precious.

Today’s blog was written by Dr. Angela Ivey, medical director at the Richmond SPCA. Dr. Ivey spent many years in private veterinary practice before joining the medical staff at the Richmond SPCA in 2004.

See the cutest pets in town – and they need a good home, too!

http://gadzoo.com/pe/gadzoo2/pets.aspx

Covered or not covered – which litter box should I choose?  So many box design choices are available these days.  Deciding whether your cat’s box should come with a lid or not is just one consideration.  This one serves purposes other than just appearance.  Your cat probably won’t notice if you attach racing stripes or a sun roof to her litter box, but she will most likely care whether there are 4 high sides and a top.  Some cats prefer relieving themselves discretely, while others feel somewhat claustrophobic if asked to relieve themselves in a covered box. 

Your decision becomes more important when other cats live in the same household.  If a box has only one entry and exit point (created by a covered box) and another kitty household member approaches the box while it’s occupied, the occupant will have to be quite comfortable passing the waiting cat when she exits.  She’ll also have to trust that the other cat won’t force her out of the box by squeezing in with her.  When a box is clearly visibly occupied (no cover on the box) the approaching cat can quickly re-direct himself to another nearby litter box. 

One more point to consider when making your decision is – how do I put this politely? – whether your cat will FIT into a litter box with a cover or not.  Lids do restrict the comfort zone.  If your cat is on the hefty side, she may not feel comfortable relieving herself in a covered box.  And you know what happens when a cat does not feel comfortable using her litter box.  Yep, she’ll find somewhere else more comfortable to “go.” This is definitely one area where you’ll want to consider your cat’s comfort over yours.

Next week: the benefits and drawbacks of “self-flushing” litter boxes. 

Today’s blog author is Marie Tripton. Marie is the senior behavior/training specialist at the Richmond SPCA. Call the Behavior Helpline at (804) 643-SPCA.

Humans use various behaviors to diffuse difficult social situations.  If you were ever “cornered” at a party by someone you really wanted to avoid, you might…
…notice something far away and very interesting out the window;
…drop something on your shirt and have to run to the bathroom to clean it;
…suddenly get an important call on your cell phone which was set to vibrate. 
Nobody really teaches us these behaviors.  And some of us can get pretty creative.  Less socially creative people might just say, “Hey!  Leave me alone.”

Dogs do the same thing.  They don’t get cornered at parties because they don’t usually attend parties.  They can, however, get “cornered” in other social situations.  When a dog is socially trapped he may choose from an array of behaviors.  He might…
…notice something very interesting far off to the right or the left;
…lay down and roll over on his back;
…spin and spin and spin in circles;
A less socially creative dog might just growl. 

Growling is not your signal to step in and “help your dog make friends.” The growl itself informs you that this dog is already uncomfortable.  Moving closer may make the dog even more uncomfortable.  Then he may be forced to move past the avoidance/aversive behavior, right on to offensive behavior (like lunging or snapping) to deter someone’s approach. 

If your dog is growling or otherwise behaving uncomfortably in social situations, you can help them worry less.  But taking away one of their social tools is not the best path to recovery.  Make your first priority to remove your dog from any uncomfortable situations and your second priority to call us for further assistance.  We’re happy to help. 

Today’s blog author is Marie Tripton. Marie is the senior behavior/training specialist at the Richmond SPCA. Call the Behavior Helpline at (804) 643-SPCA.

For many of us, spring fever has struck and we’re ready to get our hands dirty with gardening and landscaping around our homes. Before you dig in, double check your planting plans to be sure you’re not making a dangerous landscape for your four-legged companions.

Here are some tips compiled from Richmond SPCA publications, Family Dog Digest and online ASPCA sources.  For more toxicology tips or to view a toxic and non-toxic plant list, visit the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center’s Website at http://www.aspca.org/apcc. 

Plants that could affect the heart:
• Convallaria majalis; Nerium oleander; Rhododendron species; Digitalis pupurea; Kalanchoe species; Lily of the Valley, Oleander, Azalea; Rosebay; and Foxglove
Plants that could cause kidney failure:
• Lilies (Lilium and Hemerocallis species, in cats only); Rhubarb (Rheum species – leaves only); and Shamrock (Oxalis species)
Plants or fungi that could cause liver failure:
• Cycads (Cycad species such as Sago Palm); and Mushroom (Amanita phalloides)
Plants that could cause multiple effects:
• Autumn Crocus (Colchicum species – causes hemorrhagic gastroenteritis, renal failure, liver damage and bone marrow suppression); and Castor Bean (Ricinus species – can cause renal failure, liver failure, convulsions and death)

1. What should pet owners do if they suspect their animal has ingested a poisonous plant or mushroom? What symptoms should they look for?
If pet owners suspect that their animal has ingested a poisonous plant, they should contact their veterinarian immediately.  It’s advised to bring part of the plant to a nursery for identification if the exact species is not known.  Symptoms of poisonings can include almost any clinical sign.

2. Is there a way for pet owners to train or teach their pets not to eat poisonous plants or mushrooms?
Pet owners could train their pets to avoid certain areas of their home or yard where there are poisonous plants.  However, the safest method would be to prevent exposure by removing the plants from the pet’s home and yard. 

3. What about pesticides and fertilizers that might be in the garage or tool shed?
Make sure your pets do not go on lawns or in gardens treated with fertilizers, herbicides or insecticides until the time listed on the label by the manufacturer.  If you are uncertain about the usage of any product, contact the manufacturer for clarification before using it.  Always store pesticides, fertilizers and herbicides in areas that are inaccessible to your pets - read the label carefully for proper usage and storage instructions.
The most serious problems resulting from fertilizer ingestion in pets are usually due to the presence of heavy metals such as iron.  Ingestion of large amounts of fertilizer could cause severe gastric upset and possibly gastrointestinal obstruction.
The most dangerous forms of pesticides include: snail bait containing metaldehyde, fly bait containing methomyl, systemic insecticides containing disyston or disulfoton, zinc phosphide containing mole or gopher bait and most forms of rat poisons. 

How often have you heard the statement, “That dog needs a job.” It’s usually paired with a story about an out-of-control dog who doesn’t listen and drives his family crazy.  Providing a job for your mentally hungry hound can prove quite beneficial.  Jobs like agility, tracking, flyball, herding, tricks, and freestyle all tap into a dog’s natural instinct and ability to learn.  People can even benefit from the physical and mental challenges presented by appropriately channeling their dog’s energy. 

One often forgotten group of dogs can bring joy to many, many people without even trying hard.  These dogs aren’t flashy, dynamic, attention-grabbing go-getters.  They are typically calm, sweet, huggable canines, who are capable of lending a wagging tail, a sturdy back, or a gentle paw to people in need.  Therapy dogs accompany their people on visits to assisted-living facilities, to children’s hospitals, or even to scenes of natural disasters. 

There is no size limit.  There is no breed restriction.  Ages range from puppy to senior citizen.  Even physically handicapped dogs can participate.  The main expectation of therapy dogs is simply a desire to visit with people and a forgiving tolerance for people who may be more physically and/or mentally challenged than most.  If you’re living with a dog who fits that description, consider sharing with others the joy your pet brings you.  Ask us about our Paws for Health program and give your dog a job you’ll probably enjoy as well. 

Today’s blog author is Marie Tripton. Marie is the senior behavior/training specialist at the Richmond SPCA. Call the Behavior Helpline at (804) 643-SPCA.

In a recent survey of our cat population at the Robins-Starr Humane Center, we found that over 50 cats weight at least 10 lbs. Since even we are having trouble keeping them trim, we thought it a good idea to revisit the topic of fat cats.

From Sept. 6, 2007: Plump kitties face special dangers

BB is a sweet girl.  Weighing in at over 15lbs when she came to the shelter, she gave the impression of a roly-poly middle-aged lady, not quite obese, but could still stand to drop a few pounds.  But when BB came down with an upper respiratory infection and lost her appetite, those few extra pounds became much more significant.  Despite all of our efforts, BB refused to eat, even the most tempting baby food and tuna microwaved concoctions.  As days passed and BB whittled away, one thing became clear, I mean yellow.  The roly-poly little girl had turned into a shrunken, jaundiced shadow of her former self.  BB was suffering from hepatic lipidosis and was in a battle for her life. 

Hepatic lipidosis, or fatty liver disease, is one of the most common causes of liver failure in cats.  Cats evolved as predators, eating small meals throughout the day.  As cats were domesticated, their eating habits changed, with larger meals, free access to food and expanding feline waistlines becoming the norm.  This may not be disastrous in day-to-day life, but when an overweight cat becomes sick, lost or stressed and stops eating, the consequences are very serious.  The feline liver is unable to process the large amounts of fat that the starving body moves to the liver for processing.  The liver becomes overrun with fat and subsequently fails.

The cornerstone of treatment of hepatic lipidosis is nutritional support.  This can be done by force feeding or by the surgical placement of feeding tubes.  Survival and recovery from hepatic lipidosis nears 90% with nutritional support.  Without such aggressive treatment, most cats will not be able to overcome this disease.

These scenarios are very dire, even in the private veterinary practice.  In a shelter environment, they present even greater dangers.  The stress of moving a cat to a new environment can be enough to put him off his food.  That same stress could also make him susceptible to any number of viruses with which shelters must contend, which could in turn put him off his food.  Is anyone sensing a trend here?  While the portly kitties are snuggly and great lap-warmers (I won’t argue with that), their transition into a shelter environment is fraught with more danger than is experienced by the average 8lb cat.  Age, underlying medical conditions and lowered sociability all stack the scales against this group of kitties, too. 

Please do your cat a favor and go easy on the treats and be a little sparing at dinner time.  He (and his liver) will thank you.  As for BB, with intensive medical care, including force feedings over several weeks, she was able to overcome her fatty liver disease and is still here at the Richmond SPCA waiting for her permanent home.

Today’s blog author is Kate Hamilton. Kate is the medical coordinator at the Richmond SPCA.

"No act of kindness, no matter how small, is ever wasted.” – Aesop

The logical part of me thinks that dogs probably don’t experience joy, elation and anticipation in the same way that humans do, but it was a challenge to remain logical when witnessing the expressions and body language of dogs arriving at the Richmond SPCA’s Dog Jog and 5K Run on March 29. Full body tail wags, huge dog grins, and slobbery greetings don’t even begin to cover the spectacle of 500 dogs and their owners converging on one spot to celebrate and support the cause of caring for orphaned animals. I will admit there were a few dubious canines in the crowd, but the proud, beaming faces of their owners seemed to make up for any temporary misgivings.

Many of the canine attendees were former residents of the Richmond SPCA and it was such a pleasure to see old friends and to connect in person with people whose lives have been made more joyful by the adoption of a companion from our facility.  What I think I will remember most are the smiles, and I suspect that many people found that spending some time helping out the Richmond SPCA on a cool Spring morning can be a meaningful, and surprisingly hilarious, act of kindness. Come see for yourself at the Seventh Annual Dog Jog and 5K Run in March 2008!

Maya Erhardt is the Manager of Community Development at the Richmond SPCA. Visit www.richmondspca.org/race for race day photos, award winners and more.

P.S. I heard a few rumblings about the need for a Cat Walk and 5K Run…but I think logic may have to win out on that one!

Some extol the entertainment value of people watching, and while it can bring amusement, I’m more a dog watcher. It may come from lessons learned from Sarah Babcock, our chief of education and training, but I find dogs’ body language – especially when they come in contact with other dogs – inherently amusing.

Tomorrow’s Dog Jog and 5K Run promises to be prime time for observing both dogs and their people. I’ll be working, but I always find at least a few moments to look around and take it all in, usually from the top of the ramp outside our Robins-Starr Humane Center.

Lots of preparation has gone into this big day, and it all begins at 9:30 a.m. with the kick off of the 5K. It’s a people-only run, sanctioned by Richmond Road Runners, and I’ll be on the lookout for one particular human since my husband is taking part. As the time nears for the Dog Jog to begin at 11 a.m., the dogs and humans will be milling about our parking lot, where Rosebud’s K-9 Kreations Vendor Fair offers lots of options – food, kids’ activities, music and vendors with giveaways. So far 463 dogs are registered to walk the 1-mile course (with their people, of course).

My favorites are those who dress up and jog for the Times-Dispatch’s “Dress Up Your Dog and Jog” competition. The truly inspired category of dog-human look-alike is the very best. If you’re taking part in the competition, be sure to stop by the Times Dispatch table to have your photo taken for the judging.

The vendor fair is free and there’s still time to register for both events, just arrive early and go to the second floor of our building to the Track & Training Center. If you have any questions, look for one of our friendly volunteers to answer questions or point you in the right direction. It’s all great fun, but the best part is that this event is slated to raise $100,000 for homeless pets at the Richmond SPCA. The adoption center will open early, at 10 a.m. Come in and meet the many grateful, furry recipients who benefit. 

Tabitha Hanes is the community relations manager at the Richmond SPCA.

I’m constantly amazed at how frequently I hear this statement:  “Yes he’s doing it, but he’s only doing it for the food.” To which I respond in my head, “Hmm I wonder what my husband would have to pay me to sit, lie down and walk directly beside him every time he asked me to.  I bet it would cost a lot more than a few tiny pieces of hot dog.  And I really love him!” I love my job, but I don’t think I’d survive for very long if I did it for free.  Food is cheap pay.  And dog food is really cheap pay – relatively speaking. 

Many people distribute their dog’s pay for absolutely nothing.  How many of you put down a bowl of food in the morning and a bowl of food in the evening for free?  I know I do on many evenings.  Some people put down the food for free when the dog isn’t even looking.  Food stays out all day long as if there is a fountain of food flowing from the bowl in the kitchen.  Don’t snub the value of food for a dog – take advantage of it! 

If you want your dog to sit quickly every time you ask, or walk by your side while on leash, or come running to you when you call – pay him…in little pieces of his regular food.  Put part of his breakfast in a bowl, and the rest in your pocket.  Then give him a piece every time he looks at you throughout the day.  Give him a piece when he comes running to you.  Give him a piece when he sits.  Give him a piece when he gets off the sofa.  Give him pieces of his food throughout the day for all kinds of things he does well and watch him learn to really love you.

Today’s blog author is Marie Tripton. Marie is the senior behavior/training specialist at the Richmond SPCA. Call the Behavior Helpline at (804) 643-SPCA.

As I reflect on all the goals we achieved and all the animals we helped last year I thought it would be appropriate to thank all the generous members of the veterinary community that give us their time and support on a regular basis.  The invaluable discounts, donations and pro bono work that we are blessed to receive allow us to help many more animals requiring specialized procedures and care.  So the Richmond SPCA and I would like to acknowledge the giving hearts at the following:

Animal Eye Care of Richmond
Chesapeake Veterinary Cardiology Associates
Fairfield Veterinary Hospital
Veterinary Emergency Center
Veterinary Referral and Critical Care
Virginia Veterinary Surgical Associates
Wellesley Animal Hospital

I would also like to say thank you for all the donations of medical supplies that anonymously appear at our doors.  When we all work together and give of ourselves there is no limit to what we can achieve or the number of lives that we can save.

Today’s blog was written by Dr. Angela Ivey, medical director at the Richmond SPCA. Dr. Ivey spent many years in private veterinary practice before joining the medical staff at the Richmond SPCA in 2004.

Exactly 12 years ago today a stray dog wandered up to my house on Church Hill.  He became my “rehoming project” and then (pretty quickly) a member of my small 3-horse, 2-cat family.  I did not own a dog at that time and hadn’t had one in many years.  Short version of a long story is that “Crosby” changed most everything about my life and most of the things I have done since then have involved him in some way or another: dog training student, agility student, agility competitor, agility instructor, graduate student in animal behavior, graduate of the San Francisco SPCA Academy for Dog Trainers, director of Education & Training at the Richmond SPCA, etc.  I can’t even begin to count all the people I have met as a result of this one stray dog (including all of my co-workers and friends at the Richmond SPCA).  Anyway, Crosby is alive and well and sitting here in my office.  Since he was about 1 year old when I found him, I am celebrating his 13th birthday today. 

Keep your eyes out for the animal that will change your life forever.  You never know when you he or she might come along.

Sarah Babcock is the chief of education and training at the Richmond SPCA.

So you’re sharing your house with a cat.  And soon you’ll be sharing your house with a brand new baby.  Here are few things you can do to help this transition flow more smoothly:

• Before you bring Junior home, bring his belongings.  Let Muffin get used to baby smells like baby powder, Vaseline, and baby shampoo.  Try to bring home Junior’s baby blanket from the hospital, before he comes home, and lay it near Muffin’s favorite resting spot. 
• Keep Muffin out of Junior’s room unless you’re there to supervise.  Cats tend to look for warm places to rest, and you don’t want your 10 lb. cat resting on top of your 8 lb. baby.  Mobiles can make great cat toys, and they are typically set up just overtop of the baby.  Be sure your cat doesn’t establish a play routine in the baby’s room. 
• Make sure visitors visit with Muffin also, if she likes it.  If Muffin is typically a socialite, try not to lock her away for visitors.  Let her enjoy the excitement as well.  If she prefers her solitude, set up a comfy, quiet retreat she can enjoy when people are over. 
• Schedule time with your cat.  Let’s face it, Junior will likely push Muffin down the totem pole of priorities a bit.  That’s ok.  Muffin can adjust to some change.  Just make sure she doesn’t get pushed out of the way entirely.  Try to set some time aside to remind Muffin that she’s a special part of your family also. 

Today’s blog author is Marie Tripton. Marie is the senior behavior/training specialist at the Richmond SPCA. Call the Behavior Helpline at (804) 643-SPCA.

“After You.”
“No, no, After YOU.”
“I absolutely insist!  YOU first. “
“Oh, thank you, SO much, but you, you, you go.”

This is probably not a discussion you hold often with your canine companion.  For some reason, though, lately there has grown a great debate about who should be walking out the door first – you or your dog.  Won’t my dog become aggressive or dominant if he goes out the door first?  How will he know I’m the leader if I don’t make him walk behind me out the door?  If I let him out the door first, he’ll be making me sleep on the floor and I’ll be eating out of his bowl next.  So much power given to one single daily event. 

There are obviously times when there is risk of bodily injury if your dog exits before you.  For instance, if your arms are full of boxes of dishes; you can’t see where you’re going; you’re heading out the door and down the steps; and a squirrel is perched just at the bottom of the stoop.  Sounds like an accident waiting to happen.  If your dog is a rather muscular dog and likes to bound out the door with enough force to yank your arm out of its socket, this would be another situation in which exiting the door calmly would be wise.  Dogs can be taught the concept of “waiting” until you permit them to exit, even at a completely open doorway.  Teaching, of course, takes time, but it will be time well spent if it helps improve communication between you and your companion. 

Forcing your dog to walk behind you, however, may only engage you in a battle of strength, speed and wills.  That process could bring out the worst in both you and your dog.  Frequent, successful, and rewarding training sessions are much more enjoyable and foster a much more pleasant relationship.  If you’re struggling with the training process, let us know.  We’re happy to help you find a solution. 

Today’s blog author is Marie Tripton. Marie is the senior behavior/training specialist at the Richmond SPCA. Call the Behavior Helpline at (804) 643-SPCA.

As we inch closer to Spring now is a great time for all of us to get into shape, and a furry friend is great incentive.  With obesity as rampant in our pet population as our own it makes great sense to include your dog in a new healthy lifestyle.  Obesity in our pets greatly diminishes their life expectancy by predisposing them to diseases like diabetes and the pain of joint disease.  So if you want your canine companion to live the long life that all the veterinary technology now allows them, then get them involved in a regular exercise program. 

Just remember to follow a few simple guidelines:
• Have a good checkup with your veterinarian to be sure your dog is healthy enough to begin an exercise program
• Start slowly.  Begin with just walking around the block or neighborhood and work your way up to jogging or walking longer distances.  They get just as sore as we do if they don’t start gradually
• Be careful of their pads on different surfaces like ice, ice treated with melting chemicals and hot asphalt.
• Carry your own water and bowls so they are not tempted to drink out of puddles.
• Bring along plastic bags to clean up after your pet so that everyone can continue to enjoy public areas with their pets
• Have a comfortable leash for both of you. 
• A special harness is an easy remedy if your dog pulls on lead.
• Have reflective equipment if going out after dark.

Enjoy the fruits of your efforts with a longer, healthy life for the whole family. 

Today’s blog was written by Dr. Angela Ivey, medical director at the Richmond SPCA. Dr. Ivey spent many years in private veterinary practice before joining the medical staff at the Richmond SPCA in 2004.

People introduce a dog to a cat household or a cat to a dog household and sometimes forget to consider one key component – the litter box. Of course, the box itself is not typically the problem. It’s what’s in the box that concerns pet owners. Dogs are generally very attracted to cat feces, not necessarily just for the smell, but for the taste as well. Yuck! How unpleasant for the dog owner. And how dangerous for dogs.

Oddly enough the feces itself has not been proven a hazard to dogs, except for possibly the transmission of worms, but the litter can be extremely dangerous. Clumping litters are by far the most popular among cat owners. These litters pose a serious risk to dogs when ingested by the mouthfuls. They are designed to absorb liquid and form hard solids – neither of which you want happening inside your dog.

Rather than attempting to modify this behavior, find a way to prevent it. No need to change litters. Do choose your litter box style and location carefully, though. You can:

• locate the litter box in a lit closet with a small cat door installed on the closet door.
• employ the use of a baby gate low enough for your cat to get over, but tall enough to thwart your dog.
• use a covered litter box or one with a top entry that won’t fit your dog’s nose
• put a litter box in a large wire dog crate with the top removed (so you can clean the box) and the door secured slightly open so the cat can enter, but the dog cannot.

Be creative. It’s worth the effort. And do make sure your cat is comfortable with your choice, or you could end up with a different kind of litter box problem.

Today’s blog author is Marie Tripton. Marie is the senior behavior/training specialist at the Richmond SPCA. Call the Behavior Helpline at (804) 643-SPCA.

Running is a great way to get in shape and stay in shape. I have been an avid runner in the Richmond area for the past eleven years and for the majority of that time I had a running buddy, Oreo. Oreo provided me with the motivation I needed for those early morning runs when staying in bed seemed so much better than running out in the cold. Now that Oreo is too old to run with me I have found a new running buddy, actually about 30 new running buddies.

November 17, 2007 marked the first Saturday run of our wonderfully successful Running Buddies Program at the Richmond SPCA. Cherish was one of the first dogs that was chosen to run a 5K course that starts and ends at the Robins-Starr Humane Center. Shortly after the run Cherish got adopted into a loving home by a family that fell in love with her kind personality and laid back disposition. I can only imagine how happy Cherish was after someone volunteered their time to come take her for a run and I believe that the happiness that Cherish felt was what helped her get adopted. I contacted the person that took Cherish for a run and she was overjoyed that she helped Cherish find a home.

Nearly 70 of the dogs who have gone on runs or walks with our Running Buddy volunteers have found loving homes. The program was featured in last Thursday’s Times-Dispatch, and you can read the article and view video of a recent run here.

The Running Buddies Program is a great way to start training for Richmond’s spring running events, like the 6th Annual Dog Jog and 5K Run, which takes place at the Robins-Starr Humane Center on March 29, 2008. Running releases endorphins that give you a sense of well being. When you add in the fact that you are giving a shelter dog some much needed attention and a better chance of getting adopted, just imagine what that feels like!

Running Buddies have formed a team to raise pledges for the Dog Jog, and you can support us by clicking here, or go to www.richmondspca.org/race, register for the event and start a team of your own.

Today’s blog was written by Kaitlyn Hemsley, the Behavior Helpline coordinator at the Richmond SPCA. Call the helpline at 643-SPCA with your dog or cat behavior questions, or visit http://www.richmondspca.org/volunteer for details on the Running Buddy program.

Parents frequently acquire a dog as a friend for their children.  They picture Rover walking to the bus with the kids, fetching the ball they throw, and romping around happily in the yard all together.  When they get Rover home, though, he attempts to “fetch” the children, romps around the living room furniture, and walks in the opposite direction when called – just before he runs.  What is a parent to do?

The best medicine is preventive medicine.  Help Rover acclimate to his new home and family by restricting him to just one room in the house until he is settled.  Instead of opening your entire house to him immediately, play with him, read with him, groom him in “his” room for a while.  Take him outside to potty, obviously, but give him as long as he needs to settle in one room – maybe days – before introducing him to the rest of the house.  If he tends to jump on the children, you’ll be more successful teaching him calm behavior in one room.  For example, you could sit in the room with Rover’s leash clipped to your belt loop a safe distance from the kids while they play a board game or watch TV.  Reward him for good, calm behavior inside and he will be more inclined to choose that behavior outside when the kids are playing more actively.  Until then, teach your dog to play fetch with you alone in the yard so the kids will have a structured game to play with him when he’s out. 

Dogs and children can learn to get along well with your guidance.  Neither dogs nor children make natural teachers, but they can learn from each other with your assistance.  And remember to always supervise any interactions between your pet and your young children.  If you find yourself in need of some tips, feel free to contact our behavior helpline.  We are also happy to meet with you and your dog to help get you on the best path. 

Today’s blog author is Marie Tripton. Marie is the senior behavior/training specialist at the Richmond SPCA. Call the Behavior Helpline at (804) 643-SPCA.

Yes, spring is nearby and love is in the air.  And don’t be surprised if your cats start notifying you with vocalizing and intermittent spraying in the next couple months.  As the temperatures warm up outdoor cats become more active and will be out seeking their seasonal soul mate.  While your cat may not be outside with them, the caterwauling and odors that accompany this behavior will possibly influence your resident feline.  If your resident feline has not been spayed or neutered, his or her responses may be even more exaggerated.

If your cat begins a spraying habit, or starts becoming more active or vocal at night, avoid the temptation to “let him/her outside.” Instead, help your cat out by keeping outside cats away from your doors and windows.  You can find “boundary” pellets to sprinkle on the ground around your windows at local pet stores or garden stores.  If someone else’s cat is making things difficult for your cat, notify the cat’s owner – they may not be aware. You can also give them a hint by printing a spay/neuter flyer from our Web site www.richmondspca.org/clinic. 

There are also organizations that can help if you find you are neighbor to a feral cat colony.  A feral cat colony is a group of stray cats, typically un-neutered and unvaccinated, who form their own little community.  You can find many helpful organizations by searching on-line using keywords like “trap neuter return,” “trap neuter release,” or “feral cats.”

Cats procreate at any time of the year, but the number of homeless kittens dramatically increases each year around springtime.  Understand that your cat is dealing with hormonal urges when you see these behaviors increase.  Remember, you can always contact our Behavior Helpline ( or (804) 643-SPCA) for assistance. 

If your cat has not yet been spayed or neutered, he or she may be sending an unintended invitation to other cats.  We can help with that situation as well.  We are currently offering free spays and neuters for owned cats through March 31.  Call our Spay/Neuter Helpline (804) 521-1300 for more information.  Spaying or neutering your cat at a young age may actually prevent this behavior from occurring.