Frankly, I never considered walking 35 miles through the wilderness over three days carrying a backpack. And, if the thought had ever crossed my mind, I am certain it would not have rated highly on the “expectation of fun” scale. Yet, on the recommendation of a friend who had worked in New Zealand’s national parks, this is precisely what my wife, Marilyn, and I set out to do.

The Milford Track promised much more than spectacular scenery. Unlike Australia, there are no poisonous snakes in New Zealand. There are no bears or other large animal predators. There is no pollution, and you can drink water from the streams. Finally, Ultimate Hikes offers guides and well stocked huts in which to relax after each day’s adventure. Given that Marilyn was bound and determined to accomplish one of the “great walks,” this one seemed to me like a reasonable risk.

What would you expect in a walk that bills itself as the greatest on earth? Rushing rivers and streams, crystal clear lakes and dramatic waterfalls? Check.  Lush rainforest vegetation? Check. Unique native plant and animal species? Check. Phenomenal vistas? Check. Fascinating history of daring explorers who blazed the trail? Check. More stars than you ever dreamed existed visible in the nighttime sky? Check. Fascinating fellow travelers from other foreign countries (Japan, Malaysia, New Caledonia, Australia, Canada, England in addition to New Zealand and the U.S.)? Double check!!

I am sure that some people reading this blog will reflect on their own adventures in places like the Andes, the Himalayas and Africa. I know that others have “roughed it” more than we did. In fact, many people on our trip mused on their adventures in these and other remote places. However, everyone marveled at this geological, geographical gem. And, despite the end of day comforts, the physical challenge was considerable.

New Zealand is a place where you could teach an entire science curriculum with nature as your classroom. Its land has been pushed out of the ocean due to the movement of tectonic plates, so earthquakes as Christchurch continues to experience are frequent. Active volcanoes, particularly on the North Island, shape much of the landscape.  Glaciation is even more prevalent, particularly on the South Island, where fiords, broad valleys, deep lakes and dramatic cliffs are still being carved. Avalanches of rocks, trees or snow constantly change this rapidly evolving land. Road and trail repair crews are consistently challenged to keep pace.

The entire country is as immaculate as one can imagine. Everyone seems to be an environmentalist. Over 70% of New Zealand’s power is produced by alternative sources, primarily hydroelectric, geothermal and wind. Recycling is a religion. One of our B&B’s offered a recyclable bag behind the door to take when you go shopping. Even in the cities, the air is spectacularly clean.

The highest point of the Milford Track, Mackinnon Pass, stands at 3,786 feet. From this vantage point you can see three glaciers whose retreats have carved the spectacular valleys that stretch in all directions below. You do not see a farm, a residence, a cell tower, an electrical line or any other indication of modern life. This is nature. Pure. Raw. Unplugged.

Our final day of walking covered 13 miles in steady rain, which produced cascades of water at every turn. Rivers and streams became raging torrents. Former thin ribbons of water now gushed over cliffs a thousand feet high. The adrenaline rush exceeded any action film I have ever seen, as we forded swollen streams and wove our way to the trail’s end at Sandfly Point.

As I reflect on this life altering experience, I know that I have only begun to grasp its significance. So I will summarize simply. We intruded gingerly, we took nothing and we returned with riches beyond our imaginations.